Ayhan Mortepe in Ordu: 4 Spots From the Video

Researched by Varedelo

Planning notes for Istanbul

Must-try foods in Istanbul

• Regional Anatolian Stews
  Regional Anatolian StewsCaferağa is home to the world-renowned Çiya Sofrası, where Chef Musa Dağdeviren serves rare, regional dishes from across Anatolia. In September 2026, look for seasonal specialties like lamb cooked with quinces or Jerusalem artichokes. Unlike standard kebabs, these are slow-cooked, 'forgotten' recipes that change daily based on the market's freshest harvest.
• Kup Griye
  Kup GriyeAn iconic dessert specific to the historic Baylan Patisserie in Caferağa. This 'classic' consists of a decadent blend of vanilla and caramel ice cream, topped with whipped cream, honey-roasted almonds, and a signature caramel sauce. It has remained a neighborhood staple for decades and is a must-try for anyone visiting the Muvakkıthane street area.
• Midye Dolma (Stuffed Mussels)
  Midye Dolma (Stuffed Mussels)A quintessential street food found throughout the Kadıköy Market (Çarşı). These mussels are stuffed with aromatic herbed rice, currants, and pine nuts, then finished with a squeeze of fresh lemon. Local hotspots like Mercan Kokoreç in Caferağa are famous for serving them fresh 24/7, often enjoyed as a quick snack while standing at the counter.
• Kokoreç
  KokoreçSpiced, grilled lamb intestines wrapped around offal and cooked on a horizontal spit. In Caferağa, Reks Kokoreç is a legendary institution where the meat is finely chopped with tomatoes and green peppers, seasoned heavily with oregano and pul biber (chili flakes), and served inside a crusty half-loaf of bread.
• Lahmacun
  LahmacunOften called 'Turkish pizza,' this thin, crispy flatbread is topped with a spicy minced meat mixture. Borsam Taşfırın on Serasker Street is the local favorite in Caferağa, where the lahmacun is fired in a traditional stone oven. Locals eat it by rolling it up with a handful of parsley, onions, and a generous squirt of lemon.
• Pickle Juice (Turşu Suyu)
  Pickle Juice (Turşu Suyu)A vibrant, tangy, and salty drink served at the historic Özcan Turşuları in the heart of the Kadıköy Market. This shop has been fermenting vegetables since 1935. You can order a glass of the pink-hued juice, often served with a few crunchy pickled carrots or cucumbers inside, which is considered a refreshing digestive aid by locals.

Trip guide

• About Istanbul
  About IstanbulCaferağa is a neighborhood located in the Kadıköy district on the Asian side of Istanbul. Historically, it is situated within the ancient settlement area of Chalcedon, founded around 685 BC. The neighborhood contains several Ottoman-era structures, including the Cafer Ağa Mosque, constructed between 1554 and 1557, and the Kethüda Mosque, which dates back to approximately 1550.
• When to go
  When to goThe best time to visit Caferağa is during the shoulder seasons of April to June or September to October, when the weather is mild and perfect for exploring the neighborhood’s vibrant street life and outdoor cafes. Summer (July–August) can be uncomfortably hot and humid, while winter is often chilly and rainy, potentially limiting the enjoyment of the area's famous ferry rides. Visiting during the spring or fall also avoids the peak summer tourist crowds.
• Getting around
  Getting around Istanbul

  • Public Ferry (Vapur) The most scenic way to reach Caferağa is by ferry from European hubs like Eminönü, Karaköy, or Beşiktaş to the Kadıköy Pier, followed by a short 5-10 minute walk uphill into the neighborhood.
  • M4 Metro & Marmaray Take the M4 Metro line directly to the Kadıköy terminal station from Sabiha Gökçen Airport or the Asian side; alternatively.
  • T3 Nostalgic Tramway For local transport within Caferağa and the Moda peninsula, use the circular T3 Nostalgic Tram, which runs in a loop from the Kadıköy square through the heart of Caferağa's vibrant streets and back.
• Local tips
  Local tips

  • Use an Istanbulkart for the public ferries connecting the Kadıköy pier to the European side, as they are the most efficient way to avoid heavy bridge traffic.
  • Expect a secular and liberal atmosphere where casual Western-style clothing is the norm, though it is still polite to dress modestly if visiting smaller local mosques.
  • Accept offers of tea in local shops as a standard gesture of hospitality, but feel free to politely decline by placing your hand over your heart if you are in a hurry.
• What’s new
  What’s new in Istanbul

  • 6th Istanbul International Chamber Music Festival at Süreyya Opera House (running through September 2026).
  • Çil Istanbul: A recently opened neighborhood spot on Moda Street known for its minimalist design and sustainable kitchen philosophy.
• Ordu Provincial Directorate of Culture and Tourism↗
  Ordu Provincial Directorate of Culture and TourismThe official government tourism portal for Ordu, featuring Boztepe Hill, a famous viewpoint offering panoramic vistas of the city and the Black Sea.