Where to Eat in İstanbul: Soğan Çorbası From Ayhan Mortepe

Planning notes for Kadıköy

Caferağa is a central neighborhood within the Kadıköy district on the Anatolian side of Istanbul. Historically, the area corresponds to the ancient settlement of Chalcedon, established circa 675 BCE. Following the Ottoman conquest of Constantinople, the land was administered by Hıdır Bey, the first Ottoman judge (Kadı) of the city.

Must-try foods nearby

• Southeastern Anatolian Regional Dishes (Çiya Sofrası)
  An essential culinary pilgrimage in Caferağa, this spot (made world-famous by Chef's Table) serves forgotten regional recipes like 'Perde Pilavı' and seasonal stews.
• Lahmacun at Halil Lahmacun
  A true Kadıköy institution. Locals swear by this thin, crispy Turkish pizza topped with a perfectly spiced minced meat mixture.
• Modern Dürüm (Basta Street Food Bar)
  A 2026 favorite that redefined street food in Moda. Created by fine-dining chefs, these wraps feature high-quality ingredients like slow-cooked beef rib, smoked yogurt.
• Midye Dolma (Stuffed Mussels)
  An iconic street food staple found at vendors throughout the Kadıköy Market area. These mussels are stuffed with aromatic herbed rice, currants, and pine nuts.
• Kup Griye at Baylan Pastanesi
  A historic dessert from one of Istanbul’s oldest patisseries. This decadent treat consists of vanilla and caramel ice cream topped with whipped cream, honey-roasted almonds.

When to go: The best time to visit Caferağa is during late spring (May to June) or early autumn (September to October).

Local tips

• Use the public ferry or the Marmaray train to commute between Caferağa and the European side to avoid heavy bridge traffic.
• Always carry an Istanbulkart for seamless access to the neighborhood's extensive network of buses, trams, and ferries.
• Accepting a small glass of tea when offered in local shops is a standard sign of respect and hospitality in the district.
• Round up your bill or leave a small cash tip of 5-10% at sit-down restaurants, though it is not expected at casual street food stalls.

What travelers are noticing

• Terminal Kadıköy: A brand-new large-scale food hall that has recently opened near the ferry pier, becoming a central hub for diverse local street food and social gatherings.
• International Kadıköy Dance and Music Festival: A major cultural event taking place in July 2026, featuring street performances and competitions across municipality stages in the district.
• Fenerbahçe Match Day Atmosphere: Viral 'match night' energy where the neighborhood's streets and restaurants transform into massive fan zones with giant screens and chanting crowds.

Extra place context

• Yanyalı Fehmi Lokantası
  A legendary institution since 1919, this spot is the gold standard for Esnaf Lokantası in Kadıköy. Located at the entrance of the historical market, it specializes in Ottoman and Turkish cuisine with over 100 daily varieties.
  food
• Çiya Sofrası
  While the owner Musa Dağdeviren is a world-famous culinary anthropologist, the primary identity of the 'Sofrası' branch remains a high-end Esnaf Lokantası. It is celebrated for preserving forgotten Anatolian regional dishes.
  food and Southeastern Anatolian Regional Dishes (Çiya Sofrası)

Official tourism resource

The official tourism portal of Istanbul, managed by the Istanbul Metropolitan Municipality Tourism Branch Directorate.

Visit Istanbul ↗