Mark Wiens in Kabol, Kabul: 4 Spots

Researched by Varedelo

Planning notes for Kabul

Must-try foods in Kabul

• Kabuli Pulao
  Kabuli PulaoWidely regarded as the national dish, this fragrant rice masterpiece is a staple in Karte Sakhi's local eateries. It features long-grain basmati rice cooked in a savory lamb broth, layered with tender chunks of slow-cooked lamb, and topped with a signature garnish of caramelized julienned carrots, plump raisins, and slivered almonds.
• Mantu
  MantuThese delicate, hand-folded steamed dumplings are filled with a mixture of minced beef or lamb and finely chopped onions. They are typically served topped with a tangy garlicky yogurt (chaka), a split-pea tomato sauce, and a generous sprinkle of dried mint and sumac for a complex, layered flavor.
• Chopan Kebab
  Chopan KebabA favorite of the local 'Chopan' (shepherd) tradition, these bone-in lamb chops are marinated in a simple blend of salt and fat before being grilled over a traditional charcoal mankal. The result is a smoky, juicy meat with charred edges, usually served with fresh tandoori naan and a side of sumac-dusted onions.
• Bolani
  BolaniThe quintessential Afghan street snack often found in the Karte Sakhi bazaar. It is a thin, pan-fried flatbread stuffed with various fillings—most commonly seasoned mashed potatoes, leeks (gandana), or pumpkin—and served hot with a side of coriander chutney or creamy yogurt.
• Borani Banjan
  Borani BanjanA classic vegetarian side dish or main, consisting of thick slices of eggplant that are fried and then simmered in a rich, aromatic tomato and garlic sauce. It is finished with a thick layer of garlic-yogurt and dried mint, making it a perfect accompaniment to Kabuli Pulao.
• Afghan Burger
  Afghan BurgerA modern, iconic Kabul street food trending in 2026. Unlike a Western burger, this is a wrap made with thick Afghan flatbread rolled around a generous portion of french fries, various chutneys, fresh salad, and often a piece of sausage or kebab, creating a portable and filling meal.

Trip guide

• About Kabul
  About KabulKarte Sakhi is a district in Kabul, Afghanistan, situated at the base of Asamayi Hill, also known as Television Hill. The area is defined by the Sakhi Shah-e Mardan Shrine, a religious complex and landmark. Historical Heritage The shrine's origins date to the 18th century during the reign of Ahmad Shah Durrani.
• When to go
  When to goThe best time to visit Karte Sakhi is during the spring (April to May) or autumn (September to October), when the weather is mild and the mosque’s blue tiles are complemented by blooming gardens or clear skies. Avoid the extreme heat of July and August and the freezing, snowy winters which can make the hillside terrain slippery and difficult to navigate. For the most vibrant atmosphere, visit during the Persian New Year (Nowruz) in March.
• Getting around
  Getting around Kabul

  • Private Taxis The most reliable way to reach Karte Sakhi; drivers are familiar with the Sakhi Shrine landmark. Fares must be negotiated in advance as meters are not used, and it is customary for women to sit in the back seat.
  • Shared Taxis and Minibuses Affordable local transport options that follow fixed loops throughout Kabul. You can catch these at dusty lots or major intersections; they are the cheapest way to travel but often wait to depart until every seat is.
  • Private Drivers For enhanced safety and convenience, many visitors arrange a dedicated car and driver through their hotel or a local agency. This provides point-to-point service and local expertise.
• Local tips
  Local tips

  • Dress conservatively by wearing loose-fitting clothing and ensuring women carry a headscarf to respect local norms and access the Sakhi Shrine.
  • Always ask for explicit permission before taking photographs of people, especially women, and avoid photographing any security or government installations.
  • Carry local currency in Afghanis for transactions at neighborhood bazaars and tea houses, as credit cards are rarely accepted in the area.
• What’s new
  What’s new in Kabul

  • Reconstruction of the Karte Sakhi Shrine area following historical restoration efforts and its continued status as a primary site for Nowruz and Ashura observances.
  • Urban infrastructure upgrades, including the rapid expansion of asphalt road networks connecting Karte Sakhi to major districts like the 15th and Qasba.
• Afghan Tour State-Owned Corporation↗
  Afghan Tour State-Owned CorporationThe official state-owned tourism organization of Afghanistan, operating under the Ministry of Information and Culture to promote and manage national tourism.